Last one for now - Jalie 2005

5 versions so far - blue/black print/ lime green / pink / burgundy / dull green
...all v-necks, 3 long sleeves, elbow length sleeve and short sleeve.

Looking at the pink version, I still wanted to bring the shoulder point in some more and work on the wrinkles at the bust and underarm.

Burgundy was up next - I made a narrow shoulder adjustment and overshot the mark on the shoulder point by A LOT LOL.  I'm not too worried about it.  The day I did the pattern adjustments for this one, I was using sewing as a 'keep my mind off of things' activity.  To start, she's doing fine now, but a few weeks ago, my Mom had a grand mal seizure which is common with global alzheimers. I don't think it was her first one, although it had the most effect. She also has osteoporosis and the seizure ended up breaking her hip. She needed surgery to do a partial hip replacement with the only goal to be pain-free. Mom doesn't walk any more, of course, so it didn't need to be weight-bearing. Within 2 days of realizing the problem, she had her surgery - on a Saturday...evening ! Around here, that would be unheard of. Mom could have waited a long time in Montreal...I'm glad she was home.  Anyway, the next day we were still waiting for updates and I needed to keep busy. In hindsight, I should have stopped after all the adjustments were done and the new pattern traced but BEFORE I cut out the fabric :-)

 

The green one - what did I do ? hmm...moved the shoulder point out a bit - 1/2-inch, I think and lowered the armhole about 1-inch. The wrinkles are not all gone but they have noticeably shifted. The front hem is a bit high. I could probably add a bit more to the FBA, but all in all I could make this one up 'as is' and be happy.

Looking at the pictures, most of what catches my eye are problems with the fabric. This is a really loose, stretchy knit - comfy, but loose. Every single seam was sewn with wonder tape and basted with the walking foot before serging. It's really comfortable but I have a feeling it's not going to make it through too many washes before it's all out of shape.

A silly pic. Hubby was quick on the button LOL

I've joined Faye's 2013 Essential Top Sew-A-Long (linked in the sidebar) and have pulled out some of my top patterns. I think I want to play with a different pattern for a while.

Jalie 2005 - next round

I guess my focus is on tees at the moment :-)

The next version of Jalie 2005 was finished Sunday. This post would have been too, if I hadn't misplaced the post-it note I used to write down everything I did !

So, with the green tee (and its pattern) in hand, literally, I pulled down my fitting books and got to work. Fast Fit,  Fitting Finesse and The Perfect Fit were all put to good use. I looked up and tagged all my wrinkles everywhere I could find 'em. Not all the books showed them all but where they showed up in more than one book, I had choices in how to fix them.

Fast Fit was a good start - at the beginning of the book there is a specific order of alterations list.  I followed it step by step and did the alterations I needed. This is the summary (the sticky has lots more notes - it's amazing what you can fit on a 3x3 inch square piece of paper LOL)

• Forward shoulder - another 3/4-inch - shoulder seam is still not on shoulder bone
• Body length - I had already added 3 inches - no change 
• Sleeves
• Sleeves need more length - they feel too short - added 2 inches 
• Sleeves need to be more tapered at the cuff - they're too wide. - decreased 1-inch at each side
• I used PhatChick's (Thanks !) directions for adjusting the sleeve with a forward shoulder adjustment. I found these while digging around on PR.
• Diagonal wrinkles on sleeves - oops, forgot about these - they're still there :-)
• Narrow shoulder -  3/4-inch - armhole seam is still not quite right over shoulder bone.
• Narrow neck - by 3/4-inch and also lowered the V-neck down 1-inch
• Bust
• FBA - 1/2" - not sure if it was enough after all - but there aren't any horizontal wrinkles to show the bust is too tight - so I think it's ok (note - it did NOT help the horizontal underarm wrinkles - at least not much).
• Body
• More width in the body - completely forgot this too, but it doesn't feel as fitted as the green one does.

I did the alterations one at a time over the week, a little bit each evening. By Friday, it was ready and so I went right home to work on it. Got the main seams done Friday and the 'fixing' done Saturday.

Once it was made up (no, I didn't baste, just serged it all together, sleeves included, except the neckband) I tried it on. It seemed ok except the shoulders both gaped right at my neck. I ran the shoulders through the serger taking off 1/4-inch at the neck tapering to nothing at the shoulder point - and those all-important sleeves that were already attached.  That worked, no more gaping. Quite happy with the neck on this one.

Neckband was next and it was so EASY. The Jalie technique again. The basting didn't shift. The point of the V stayed put and the serging was so smooth and even.  I have to say, each version of this top has been made with a thicker knit than the previous - from the lightweight print to a lightweight (but heavier than the print) cotton interlock to this cotton interlock. There's not much recovery and not so much stretch, but man, is it ever easy to sew !

Here's the result:

The back could use a swayback adjustment. I don't want a CB seam so won't worry about this. Also, I used wonder tape to do the hem and it's not washed out yet so the hem is tighter around the hips than it will be after a wash.
Those diagonal underarm wrinkles are another story - I don't mind some wrinkles but I'd like to reduce these at least some.
Do I need to lower the armhole ?

The front: still have work to do. The only thing I'm completely happy with is the neck.
There's diagonal pulling pointing to the shoulder point.
The wrinkles above the bust are less and in the side pics below you can see there are still vertical folds at the underarm.
The shoulder width is not narrowed enough - yet.
The sleeves are extra long on purpose, but in this sturdy knit it created the wrinkles all the way up to the elbow.
The diagonal wrinkles at the top - more sleeve cap height ? maybe

The sides: you might be able to see my shoulder point is still forward of the shoulder seam as well as all the extra fabric at the underarm, both front and back.

Back to the drawing board. But this one will be worn as well, indoors anyway. It's heavy enough to feel like a cosy sweater. :-)

Jalie 2005

Hey everyone - I didn't plan on a long break, but it's been a weird start to the year. Not bad, just wasn't getting much done...especially sewing.

This past October, I 'quickly' (never a good thing) sewed up a Jalie 2005. I really wanted a 'sewn by me' something to wear with the girls in Toronto. Yeah, so it didn't work. Too tight, too short, too everything.

This is the second version. Same fabric as the October wadder. I like it, I'm glad there was enough for a 2nd attempt. It's not perfect, but comfy and I wear it all the time. There were a lot of adjustments. I winged the tracing. It's sort of a T at the shoulders, kind of a V below the armscye, a little wider at the hips. Forward shoulder adjustment. Lengthened, a lot. The body by maybe 4-inches. Lengthened the sleeves from 3/4 to full-length. Widened the sleeves at the bicep - but not enough. It's a really snug sleeve LOL - only wearable because the knit is so soft. I thought it needed an FBA - did I measure ? *snicker* um, nope - I thought and guessed and picked a number. Oh, and I completely forgot how to do an FBA...course I've only done a couple. Did I check my book ? nope again LOL I remembered where the lines go but did not cut them right so when I spread the pattern nothing opened up properly. So I kind of smooshed it down, used lots of tape and crossed my fingers. You do NOT want to see that pattern piece. It's a wonder this thing actually resembles a t-shirt at all. Anyway, here it is.

I used the Jalie instruction for a V-neck and it worked out pretty well. It's even all round - color me surprised.

So, while I could call this a success, there's plenty wrong with it. The print is hiding wrinkles. The neck feels wide. The shoulders are hanging a full inch or more from my shoulder point. Sleeves need a 'touch' more room.

Next version - I decided to be more methodical. I took my measurements and picked a different size. I measured in at a W. Ok - but there was no way I could start with W in the shoulders so I kept T there and swung out to W at the underarm. W all the way down. Grabbed a solid knit I picked up from Fabricville's liquidation table ($2/m I think) and sewed it up.

The question in your minds should be 'did you check it against your previous version before you sewed it up ?' I believe we all know the answer to that :-)

Alrighty then, here we are. Version 2. Worse than the last one. Or at least all the problems are visible ! Isn't it a rule or something, that each version is supposed to get BETTER ?



Mucho wrinkles - Pic below shows them in all their glory - here's what I think:

• First things first - don't look at the neck ! It was not the success the first one was LOL
• FBA needed. It 'might' also help the horizontal wrinkles at my underarm.Diagonal wrinkles on either side of V-neck. I'm thinking these may be less if I narrow the neck a bit - an inch ?
• Diagonal wrinkles on sleeves - just notice them - need to recheck the books for the fix.
• Vertical wrinkles at armhole - shoulder needs to be moved in to the shoulder point where it should be.
• Sleeves need more length - they feel too short.
• Sleeves need to be more tapered at the cuff - they're too wide.
• Forward shoulder - another 1.5 cm
• More width in the body - it's a bit snugger than the first one.

Did I miss anything - over-think it ? Don't think so. But I finally did pull out both versions of the pattern tracing and match them. Guess what I found ? After all my tweaking of my original T/V sized pattern, that original is the right body width and the right width over the bust. Both of which I would have known if I'd checked first - someone slap me. The armhole is also a better shape (because of the funky FBA) and I don't have the horizontal wrinkles above the bust in that tee. oy !

My success of the week ! You know I was looking for a multi-grain bread recipe. Well, I tried 5 and haven't made any since the end of September. I got sick then Christmas cookie baking took over. Last weekend, I tried a no-knead, bake in a dutch oven bread. FAIL ! Sunday, DH asked what I wanted to do. Well, I had bread making on my mind and decided to go back to square one and start with what I knew. My sister has a FABULOUS recipe for regular white bread. If you remember I made it with my Dad a while back Here and Here
Well, I switched out 2 cups of white flour with 12-grain and made up a half-recipe. The toast was so/so but the bread !! OMG the bread is really good :-) Next time I'll use 3 cups 12-grain flour but the only thing I'm going to try to actually change is the crust - I'd rather a softer crust. Now THIS was where I should have started !

We booked an extra long weekend and I've enjoyed every minute of it - 4 grand days ! Tomorrow it's back to work.

Comments on the Tee

Thanks for the comments on the tee, Ladies.

I wore it to work today, and it was very comfortable. But, let me tell you, it got noticed !!! I work in a casual office but we don't dress very exciting, I noticed today that there is very little pattern or texture in the women's clothes. Some, but not alot. The guys, of course, are just in pants and shirts for the most part.

Gwen - it was a conversation starter, for sure.
Trena - I'm not the rebel type by nature, but I'm gonna give it a try, carefully LOL :-)
Gaylen - the rose placement is a total fluke, lucky, huh? But if you notice, there is a headline "Agency to Promote Organ Donation" right at the bust line. I only noticed it later in the day today, but I could say I did it on purpose, no ? As to 'what's the worst that could happen'? well, I'm so not a rebel that I picture my machine exploding on me if I do anything wrong - it wouldn't, would it ?
Faye - you wouldn't have been alone, I got 'read' all morning ! It was pretty funny actually :-)

BWOF 2009-02 (108) - version 2

Yes, it's 3:50am and I've been wide awake since 2:30 (and not much impressed - it's going to be a long busy day)

So, to make the most of the time, here I am - with t-shirt pics. When I finished it Tuesday, I hung it up and took a couple of pictures myself.

The inside showing the serged seams.


The hem - I did give up on the coverstitch but I did manage to figure out the twin needle on the regular sewing maching. The wonder tape helped immensely because the fabric was sooooo slippery. The hem is ok but the instructions on my machine say not to make the stitch length any longer than 2 when you use the twin needle - it's a VERY short stitch & I wish it was longer. I don't know why the length is supposed to be that short but I'm going to set it longer and very carefully try a sample because all the things I've read lately for twin stitch hems say to make your stitch longer (maybe 3 or so) - It would look alot better.

I didn't get a chance to have DH take pics on me until last night.

The newsprint fabric is very lightweight (poly/lycra ?) was from the same Wazoodle order as the first pink tee (about $4 for 1.5m). I didn't like it when I got it but someone (can't remember who) on PatternReview used it and I liked her shirt alot. Now I can't decide if I like it on me or not.

The fit on this one is better than the pink. It's a tad longer in the body, it sits better on the shoulders (small forward shoulder adj.) and I love the long sleeves - I can't buy RTW long enough in the sleeves !

The serger was dropped off at the service center last night after work. It needs a cleaning and I want the tension disks checked. The tension for the right hand needle seems 'off'. They'll check it out today and I 'should' be able to pick it up tomorrow morning.

It was a productive evening

I picked up wonder tape on the way home and used it to sew the hem of the t-shirt. It's all done, I'll post tomorrow once I ask DH to take a pic.

I measured and logged in the fabric I bought last week. The guy cutting the fabric was pretty generous. I asked for 3 m of each piece. 3 of them were 3.4 m and 1 was 4m (the brown print was the end of the roll and he threw it all in once he got to 3 m and saw there wasn't much left)

Four more discloths finished and ready to use.

Weekend's over

My goodness they go quickly ! Wasn't it Friday just yesterday ? :-)

Ah well, I intended to work on another t-shirt this weekend. I wanted to try another BWOF 2009-02, #108 to tweak it a bit and to get more practice on knits while it was still fresh.

We had a beautiful 2 days though, and I spent most of it either upstairs near the windows or outside (we took the puppies for the first walk of the season today - you can't walk a chihuahua in winter in Montreal).

I ventured downstairs after supper tonight and worked on my pattern pieces (forward shoulder adjustment of 1/2" and I adjusted the bust so it is on line with the 42 not the 40 as I'd originally made. The pieces are all cut out but now it's bedtime...I don't dare sew at 10pm.

In the meantime, I did ask DH to take pics of the first t-shirt. He is now nominated to take all my pictures - the only one I've taken was horrible - LOL - it's worth waiting for him to be available !

Now that it's been washed, the seams are a bit more wiggly. It's a color WAY outside my usual, so much so that the compliments I got were on the color not the t-shirt. That must be a good thing - no one asked if I'd made it.




I'll finish the next one and post pics once it's done.

1st Knit & 1st BWOF

I got brave this past weekend and pulled out a knit to make a t-shirt. There is now a 1 year collection of BWOF on my bookshelf and I've yet to make anything. There are quite a few items in the 2009-02 BWOF that I'd like to try and I decided to make #108 the t-shirt with the boatneck neckline.

I compared my measurements against the size chart and I should be a 40 at the shoulders and a 42 at the waist & hips. The fabric doesn't have a lot of stretch - I think I'd like to try another one maybe a size bigger (& a couple inches longer in the body).

The fabric is a deep pink cotton jersey from a Wazoodle t-shirt bundle. In order to match thread to the knit, I used my sewing machine with a small zigzag rather than my serger. I sewed the sleeves in flat after taking off about 3/4" from the sleeve cap...the reviews on patternreview suggested this as the cap is pretty high. The seams are wonky and no-one but me will ever see the inside of this tee but it's actually pretty comfortable and I will wear it.

Anyone have any thoughts on the fit, any suggestions of what to change next time ?

DH was out bowling tonight and so I tried to take a pic myself. I got this one just before the battery died. DH is the photographer in this family...once the battery is charged up, I'll ask him to take a better pic.

Side note - apparently it's not as difficult as I thought to catch your finger under the sewing machine needle :-(