So, here is the back in all its horribleness - I don't know how to fix it yet, but some of the comments on PatternReview have been that I could get rid of the diagonals by shifting the leg, but the horizontals are likely caused by my posture (locked knees) rather than the pattern - have to play with the pattern a bit - I need the space to sit and move but I may be able to lessen the horizontals a little (maybe a tiny Flat Butt Adjustment?).
I'll document the process and we'll see if it works.
L to R - original, first adjustments, two final versions (btw - they are all the same pants - just different lighting conditions)
Posts
Ah! It's going to let me comment :)... OK, looks like the back of the gray pants need a deeper (scooped out) crotch seam. Some bodies require the back crotch to be cut lower than the front crotch. And perhaps the crotch extension of the back piece needs to be longer, too, if you're looking for a pant that falls straight down from your buttocks, trouser style. This cut looks to be a mix of jean cut and trouser cut. Be sure (by thread tracing, that the grain line isn't twisted. The pant fabric might also hang better if lined at least to the knee. The FB adjustment makes the crotch seam into an "L" shape to accommodate high hip issues which it doesn't look like you have. Removing the darts is also a way to do a tiny FB. With muslin, try cutting a deeper crotch and longer extension first?
ReplyDeleteI agree with Mary Beth that you need the dreaded "flat butt" adjustment. Imagine pulling your pants up at the cb, lowering the crotch seam an equivalent amount, but leaving the side seams and inseam exactly where they are. This will get rid of the extra fabric which is bunching and making those diagonal wrinkles right under your behind. Ann Rowley is the acknowledged expert. Check out this discussion and follow her instructions: http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,2106.0.html. The only caveat is that you do need room to move and sit down. If your pants are a full trouser style you can fully eliminate all wrinkling. The closer fitting the pants (i.e. jeans style), the more some wrinkling is not only inevitable but also necessary.
ReplyDeleteThe web address got truncated in my comment - it should end in ".html"
ReplyDeletehttp://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,2106.0.html
aargh. just add "tml" to the address
ReplyDeleteNever mind the pants adjustment... Look at the great BOD inside!! YOUR line is great!!
ReplyDeleteCongratulations!!
Rhonda
I'm just starting up with pants again. It's been a while since I made a pair, guess pants fitting work should be a continuous project for me. I'm no help for the fb adjustment technique, I'll never have that problem although I do have many others involved in pants fitting so I feel your pain. We just have to keep at it.
ReplyDeleteJust to be clear, here, Claire (VBG): I'd start with lengthening the crotch seam by scooping, not straightening (FB adjustment), then I'd try lengthening the crotch extension (tiny increments).
ReplyDeleteIf I was my mother, I'd say, "You're too skinny! Gain at least 10 pounds!" She would tell me this if something didn't fit, if I was cold, whatever. Needless to say, I never valued her opinion. I have no clue as to what to do about your pants wrinkles, but it looks like much better minds than mine are hard at work on your behalf! Hope they work out for you; I'd like to see what eventually happens.
ReplyDeleteJust added you to the pants challenge Claire. You will receive an email invitation. Just respond to it and then you will be in. Thanks for joining up.
ReplyDeleteOh Claire. Seeing your post and reading the replies makes me realize how little I know about pants fitting. If I took behind pics of my pants,They'd probably be wrinkled too.
ReplyDeleteClaire I am just watching a video by Peggy @ Silhouette patterns and remembered reading your post here. I thought that it may help you out with your pant fitting. The information is about 25 or so minutes into the video. Hope it helps :)
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteoops...here is the link to the Yoga pant webcast.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_05_09_2011.htm