Ah patience ! I've heard it said about me in regards to the pants BUT the reason my last post was May 22 was because it got the better of me for a bit - the fit was either more wrinkly than I wanted or each tweak had too much of a snowball effect and did more bad than good. It's been on my mind but I haven't done a great deal since my last pants posts - just bits here and there. Lots more reading online and in all the books I have with pant fitting in them.
Yesterday, I got up and decided to have another go at figuring out my crotch curve. I have both a flexible ruler and lots of tinfoil and have tried this unsuccessfully before. I don't remember the results but if I had to guess, it was before I knew that the back curve being much longer and lower than the front is actually NORMAL ! LOL
After a couple of attempts...this me (or at least a reasonable facsimile)
I carefully placed this over my pants and traced it out. The faint red line is the traced curve. Actually, it's not far off my last seam other than that bump that is (or should be) the CB seam. The CF starts a bit to the left, crosses to the SA at the CF curve and at the inseam crosses back over the CB seam where it is just below my last seam to the curve after which it curves about an inch before coming back to the seamline at top of CB.
I sewed this seam from the front to back, joining the original seam at the bottom of the CB straight seam. That bit of vertical fold is STILL there in the front but the back wrinkles are minimized. Now - for the last few weeks I've followed Sew4Fun's suggestion of taking my pics with heels to be able to see the difference between sewing wrinkles and posture wrinkles - I do NOT have heels in these pics.
Didn't like the feel of the front crotch so I sewed the final seam as shown below. I followed CF with the newest line, did not cross to the SA but kept the previous curve under CF crotch, the new seam under the CB crotch and the straight-a-way up the CB seam. Make sense ? I took a pink marker to it...
BTW - you may have noticed the mess in front of the front inseam. I took a 1/2-inch wedge?dart from the CF crotch to the knee. It is the only thing that made that darned front fold less. Was it the 'right' things to try - couldn't tell you, but I'm happier with them.
My final pic - those wrinkles are actually way less than I've ever had in flat feet !
Now to unbaste and copy this on to another pair - that vertical dart worked but made these one's an unwearable muslin :-)
Hope you all had a great weekend.
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