Monday, April 9, 2012

Only a small difference

Only made one change - unpick the waistband from the pants and rebaste it lowering the side seams. It only gave me about 1/4" so I wasn't expecting a great improvement, if any.

Some of the comments I received were from:
Digs - drop the side seams & widen a smidge
...I had already widened approx a 1/4" smidge from waist to a few inches below the crotch. The change was the 1/4" drop of side seams
Waikikimum - extended calves & maybe back thigh length too long ?
...I definitely have hyperextended calves ! The back thigh length may be too long. I could pin a wedge here, but I'll only be able to fix it in the next version.
Gwensews - check out Peggy Sagers videos for wrinkle help.
...Gwen, I've watched one of Peggy's pants videos - one where she fit pants onto 2 women. It was a while ago though, I should go back and rewatch it and check out the jeans fitting one as well.

In the meantime, here are the next round of pics.
Front and back - all I've done since last time is rebaste the waistband and lower the side seams that 1/4". The front shows the hip curve REALLY needs to be adjusted - they look like jodphurs now :-)

Since I could only resew such a tiny amount, I tugged the side seams down another bit - maybe about 1". You can see the waistband is now looking straight across rather than contoured. The wrinkles are a bit less pronounced on the right but I have no idea why. Maybe my stance was different.




Next up - the dreaded wedgie shot - the wrinkles changed but I have NO IDEA what this is telling me !

Last one - knowing I have hyperextended calves, I bent my knees a bit to see if this would help the drape of the back below the knees - I don't see much difference.

I don't think there is anything else I can do with this pair. I think I'll sew them up for real and see what I end up with. A lining would probably help the drape but I haven't done a pant lining yet - should I start now ?

For the next version, two wedges (Debbie's X-wrinkles) may help - these would both add to the side seams and take some length from the back inseam.

Any other suggestions ?

7 comments:

  1. Some really good info is to be found in the sewing salon on the Sawyerbrook.com website in the posts of a sewalong that was led by Jennifer Stern of J. Stern Designs. A lot of people took pictures of their results and she posted explanations of what the problem was and how to fix it.

    http://www.sawyerbrook.com/salon/khaki-shorts-f54/sewing-topic-355.html

    ReplyDelete
  2. Wrinkles are a trip. I'm still trying to adjust front wrinkles on the pants I make. Lining pants is really not that difficult, and I love the feel of it.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Claire, may I suggest you let out at CB seam and take in the same amount at side seams. This trick often works.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Correction! Take IN at CB and let out at SS

    ReplyDelete
  5. I still don't know anything about pants, but since you're not hippy, you do need to fix the jodphur look going on there. I'm just here to applaud your efforts.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Have you tried to take a dart in the pattern....right at the top of the inner leg. In each pic that I look at, you seem to have the same problem that I have, which is: look closely at the outer hip and follow it down to the back of the inner knee...the pants are too long at the inner thigh point! a pinch or really a dart widest at inner thigh, tapering to nothing at the side seam works for me. Of course, this would have to be done on the muslin...Try it on your next muslin...it really did the trick for me. Good luck, hope it helps.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Sorry, I forgot to add that when you take the dart in the pattern or muslin, you have to do the same thing on the front of the leg as well.
    Hope this helps you. I know it can't be done on this pair, but try it on the next...They still look good. I admire your sewing talent!

    ReplyDelete

Thanks for talking to me - I love comments !