Friday, April 6, 2012

Pants - Again

I finally managed to get down to the sewing room to work on a project. After all the work I put in last spring fitting pants, nothing fits anymore and I have to start from scratch. The Burda and HP Patterns that I was working on needed a fair bit of tweaking to fit my backside so I decided to try another company and see where I stand. The fact that I was trying to make trouser-type patterns fit more like jeans was probably not helping.

I recently posted a bunch of Simplicity patterns I'd picked up on a $1 sale. S2860 was the pattern I decided to use for slacks. For jeans, I checked around PatternReview, decided on V8774 and luckily enough Vogues were on sales the week after Simplicity so I grabbed one.

Most important right now to have some pants for work - we're not 'technically' allowed to wear jeans every day as I'm doing now. The Vogue jeans will be my next pants project though, I think. I would LOVE to have jeans that start and STAY long enough !

As you know, the Amazing Fit patterns have the Slim/Average/Curvy fit and detailed instructions on how to choose your size. So far, most reviews of these patterns that I've read say that picking the size and style with these instructions worked well. Yeah, not for me. My measurements put me in a size 14 average - and that's just gonna be TOO big. My fabric was the last of the grey 'RPL?' I was using last year and is pretty stretchy. I cut the size 8 slim and crossed my fingers. No pics, but after basting everything together, it seems as though the size 8 is the correct crotch shape for me. I sewed the back inseam on the 1" seam line and the sideseams at 5/8" (completely forgetting there were 1" SA's allowed).

There didn't look to be any wonky folds at the front crotch either horizontal below the zipper or vertical at the inner thigh. The back didn't seem to be too bad either. All good to go - I could have sewn these up as a final wearable muslin IF I HADN'T sliced into the back leg halfway between the knee and hem - duh !!! What to do ?

Well, find some other fabric and sew up a real pair - crossed fingers, of course LOL

In Aug 2009, Fabricville had a sale on 4-season wools - I bought 2 pieces - blogged HERE. Even though they were only $2.99/m, my brain got stuck on 'good fabric'. Besides, sitting in the collection for 2-1/2 years wasn't doing my wardrobe any good ! Brain is now unstuck and a pair of wool pants is cut out from the black on black pinstripe. Given the muslin was stretchy and the good pair is wool, I cut the crotch seam and inseam at size 8 and the sideseams at size 10 'just in case'.

All that's done so far is the zipper. I added a cut-on fly extension and used Sandra Betzina's instruction (link on the sidebar) to insert the zipper. A 3-day weekend now so the big plan is to work on these pants and maybe finish them. Optimistic? Probably but I'll give it a shot !

Have to have a picture - here's the zip so far. Not completely unhappy with it but forgot the underlap - duh !


  1. From what you write here - you are dedicated to finding that correct fit and I think you are well on your way too. Pants fitting is a real JOB! I haven't made any pants since the fall, so I feel I have to start all over as well. Besides, I've been using my TNT pattern a little too long. It's a vintage (more than 20 year old pattern) that although it still needs tweaking has yielded a pretty good fit for me. I need to move out of my comfort zone into uncharted waters. I wish you the very best, but I think you've got this pair in the bag!

  2. I feel you on pant fitting it's always a battle for me sometimes I sin sometimes things to get too well , but you've really nailed this so far congratulations . I am working on S2700 now hopefully I get something out of it . Great job

  3. Yea sewing!! Can't wait to see how the pants turn out - I avoid them like the plague. g


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